Nigg
NUMBER XIX.
PARISH OF NIGG.
(County of Kincardine.-Presbytery and Synod of Aberdeen.)
Nigg, County of Kincardine, OSA, Vol. VII, 1793
By the Reverend Mr DAVID CRUDEN.
194 - 217 - Statistical Account
Situation. Form, etc.
THAT chain of mountains, which nearly divides Scotland, called the Grampians, may be considered as terminating at the German Ocean, in this parish. It forms also the north-east point of the county of Kincardine. It is attached to the commissariot of St. Andrew's, but belongs to the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen. In shape it is a peninsula. The word Nigg is said to mean, in Celtic, a peninsula. A parish in Rosshire, which is also named Nigg, is of the same form with this. On the north-east, the land turning into a ness or head-land, runs out into the sea called the Girdleness, round to the Bay of Aberdeen; on the north-west, it is washed by the tide in Aberdeen harbour and the river Dee; and on the south-west, bounded by the parish of Banchory Devenick. It presents to the sea a bold face of rock, from 60 to 80 feet high, covered with green; then a rising bank, arable from the top of the rock to some distance, increasing towards the southern extremity; and above, an ascending heathy ridge of hills about 200 feet above the sea, going through, the whole length of the parish, and crowned with two cairns, which are seen several leagues off, and direct those who fail near the coast. The north side of the parish consists of two haughs, on the river and the side of a hill, ending in the Girdleness, and of a valley and hill beneath the heathy ridge. Though a part of the soil be clayish, the far greater part is loamy, of various depth, and on different bottoms, in some places incumbered with stones. The haughs, the valley, and tides of the two hills, to the north, are arable. The bank to the south is in good part ploughed. A broad belt, of above a mile, more and less, throughout the middle, and the whole length of the parish, with the exception of some acres lately cultivated, is unarable and uninhabited, consisting of moss and of heath, strewed with many stones. The measures of the different kinds of ground* , are,
(*A map of Kincardineshire was published by Mr William Gordon, 1774. A survey of the parish of Nigg was made by Mr George Brown, 1777.)
infield, 526 acres 2 roods 7 falls;
outfield, 577 acres 2 roods 26 falls;
pasture, 584 acres 5 falls;
moor, 1483 acres 2 roods 1 fall;
moss, 203 acres 3 roods 35 falls;
total, 3375 acres 2 roods 34 falls. The infield, or croft, is ground continually in tillage, and regularly manured.-The outfield is ground which is never manured, but ploughed occasionally from pasture grass.
Coast. - A mile from the south-west boundary. There is a natural harbour, with very little artificial help, the cove, fit for boats, which accommodates the fishermen of a village lying above it, and sometimes affords refuge to others: For northward of the port of Aberdeen, for several leagues, is a sand beach, and that port being formed by a river, has often a surge rising quickly at its mouth, by the wind blowing in shore, dangerous to boats; here, therefore, they have often found safety. From this place, though there be several indented hollows along the coast, and though an attempt was lately made, by a small pier, to fit one of them to receive boats, there is no harbour for them 4 miles rounds till they come to Aberdeen.
The latitude is 57 deg. 9 min. north; the longitude is 2 deg. 9 min. west. In time of war a flag is hoisted on a staff half a mile from the point, on the most raised eminence, as a signal, when an enemy's ship is in the offing. There is free open sea along this coast. The water rises, at spring tides, 13 feet 5 and the height of the stream is at 45 minutes past noon, at full and change. The tide of flood runs south-west and by south; that of ebb, north-east half north, and at the rate of 3 and 4 knots in the hour. The variation of the compass is 25 degrees west, and has increased a degree within there 7 years. From 6 and 8 fathoms at the rock foot, the bottom deepens, shelving off shore, with sandy, rocky, and various ground, and sometimes rising, till it sinks to 90 fathoms, at the distance of 10 or 11 leagues from land; then it ascends on the fishing bank, the Long Forties, to 33, 34, or 35 fathoms, a few leagues over, until it falls into the depth of the north sea.
Rivers, Lakes, etc. - The Dee, which forms the harbour of Aberdeen, after a course pretty much north-east, of 80 miles, falls here into the sea. On this side of the harbour is Torry Pier, where vessels come to unload lime, and take in cargoes of stones; above which lie the boats of the fishermen, serving also as pilots, who inhabit the village of Torry.
The tide flows more than two miles farther up the river, to a bridge over it, and even to the boundary of the parish; but there is no navigation up the stream, except for boats and lighters about a mile, on account of the shallows in it. The Dee is a clear rapid river, flowing mostly through gravelly soil, favourable to natural wood, and sometimes riles to overflow the haughs, carry off part of the mould, and sweep away corns. The upper haugh in this parish is a little exposed, and in autumn 1768 suffered. One lake, the Loch of Lorstown, is on the south-west boundary, oblong in form, covering 27 acres, and supplying water to the only mill here.
There is also one chalybeat spring, though not frequented for any diseases; but springs of fine water abound.
Face of the Country, etc. - Being destitute of wood, the face of the country is naked. In the last age, a grove seems to have been by the harbour mouth to the edge of the water.
And besides many remains of oak dug out of the moss, stumps of trees, which must have been one and a half, and two feet diameter, still stand on the east side of it, above ground. Fine grass, mingled with many herbs, grows early on the sea banks, and rock top, almost ever green from the spray and dews. Through the large uncultivated, and, for the most part, uncultivable space of this parish, a low heath is spread. The sea-side and hill pasture is reckoned good and wholesome for sheep, and almost never is covered to any depth with snow. The corn fields are liable to the common weeds, especially to skelloch, (mostly wild mustard), for which, to sow late after ploughing, when the plant is risen up, and may be destroyed by harrowing, has been tried with success.
Many stones of the granite kind lie on the surface, which, with those taken from the rock by the sea, and under grounds are some of a beautiful bluish, and others of a purple and various heu. They supply abundant materials for building and inclosing. Several species here, from the attraction of the magnet, seem to be volcanic; so are others in the hills far up the Dee. If this experiment is a certain indication, is what condition must this country have once been?
Climate and Diseases. - The air is healthy; Along the coast it is fresh, and, from the influence of the sea, to the sense colder; yet the frost is less intense, snow continues shorter time, and the crop ripens sooner than in places a little inland. The east wind brings a moisture, and sometimes, particularly in the month of May, mists come off the sea; but the climate cannot be called damp; rather, from the moderate quantity of rain which falls upon this east coast, perhaps about 27 inches annually, from the light, loamy, sandy soil, absorbing it soon, and from the frequent breezes, it may be reckoned dry. This allows grain to be sown pretty early; oats, from the middle of march, and bear, from the middle of April; potatoes are planted in April; turnip is sown from the beginning of June. The crop ripens in general soon.
In this sea air, iron is soon corroded. It brings also on the surface of many bodies, especially in a northern and eastern exposure, a fog, or green species of moss. To the growth of timber and fruit it rectus unfavourable, at least till shelter be acquired. No diseases of an epidemic nature prevail here, except brought by contagion. Agues are unknown.
The small-pox, for which inoculation is not used, once in a few years spreads, especially among the fisher families, whose communication with one another is open, and carries off sometimes many children. From the more sedentary life of women now, at knitting stockings, hysteric complaints are thought frequent. The inhabitants live to a moderate age. The fishermen are very little subject to diseases through mid-life; but exposed, from their occupation, to disasters.
Of 30 men in boats at the Cove, within 3 years 9 have perished.
Ancient Population and State. - From the end of the last century to the middle of the present, the population of this parish was about one fourth greater than now. The country was also filled with the cattle of 17 ploughs, 10 and 12 to the plough, and covered with above 2000 sheep. From about the war 1740, the population has declined to the year 1786. The cattle were reduced, rapidly near the last period, to scarce one plough; and there remained not one sheep.
The causes of this depopulation seem to have been these: The drain of men, principally to the fleet, in the different wars; an increasing turn to the sea-faring life, to handicrafts, and manufactures; from a prohibition, and the mosses being high exhausted, the occupation of preparing and carrying fuel to Aberdeen stopped. The new mode of agriculture contributed here to the same general effect. The tenants found, with the ideas of inclosing and green crops, their sheep disturbed; and they put flocks of them away. The prospect of a division of the parish, which almost wholly lay in run ridge, and the short, uncertain leases in view to it, led them to put away the remainder, to give up their oxen, and to plough on their fields with horses, deprived of the dung of cattle and sheep, the wet grounds being turned low, or neglected.
Division of the Parish, and Improvements. - From the abbacy of Arbroath, to which this parish belonged, one half of it, alternate ridge, came to a predecessor of Mr John Menzies of Pitfoddels, who now possesses it. The town of Aberdeen holds the other half, purchased with monies mortified principally for promoting education and religious instruction.
That community has also some property, which had remained separate. By the arbitration of two gentlemen, the parish was divided in 1786, the town of Aberdeen obtaining the tide along the lower part of the harbour, and round the coast, and Mr Menzies that up the river, and inland. He has now let his grounds in the following manner: Divided into small lots, from 10 L. to 30 L. some of which are taken in lease together, and some even subdivided. The tenants are obliged to do something in inclosing them, and to keep part in grass and green crop. As an incitement to meliorate the land, the rent riles a little at the end of 9, and again at the end of 19 years; while the temptation to exhaust it is removed by the uncertain term of a lifetime to which the lease extends beyond the last period. The town-council of Aberdeen have feued out their share in nine moderate lots, from about 30 L. to 90 L. each. By becoming private property, a new spur is given to render it more valuable. Accordingly, every feuer has made some progress in improving his ground; and some of them, by building stone-fences, draining and dressing the surface, as well as by laying on lime, and erecting farm-houses and steddings, have done much to change the face of their property. Indeed, a spirit of industry and improvement has gone out, and reached the lowest cottager. Multures and embarrassing services are abolished. Part of the formerly plowed land is regaining. Oxen are brought in, and reared of a larger size. Cows are kept to a greater number than ever; and some sheep are introduced. The population has increased from new families coming in, and from the settlement which has taken place.
The people who, in 1787, were 1024, are now 1090. They are also becoming better accommodated. Within the space of a few years, 70 houses have been built in a substantial manner, and suitable for the different possessors, at the expence of above 1200 L.
Cultivation. - Carts, introduced here about 30 years since, are universally used; and, in there rising grounds, drawn by two horses. The best form of other implements of husbandry, and best modes of agriculture, and rotation of crops, are only beginning to be understood and tried.
Manures. - To animal dung and ashes, that manure produced in the fishing villages, from the mixture of all oily and fishy substances, is used. It favours bear and green crops; buts when used much, renders the soil unfit for producing oats. Hence that toil is called poisoined land. Another manure is ware and sea-weed. It is brought to land in the Bay of Nigg, and at the mouth of the harbour principally, after an agitation of the sea, when the wind blows in points from the north, round by the west, to the south; that is, blows from the land; so that the breeze which would carry a body out to sea on its surface, brings this substance, at the bottom, or swimming in it, in a contrary direction, on shore; an object suggesting the manner of the internal motion of water agitated by wind*.
(*In the same manner, the wind in the points from the east draws into the sea the sand, covering stones on a shelving bank when it blows an easterly storm, while it brings wreck woods on the surface, ashore.)
This ware is of three kinds, obtained at different seasons. The first is the green slake, which grows in the river, is washed down by the summer floods, and is brought ashore at the harbour-mouth. The second kind is composed of various marine plants torn from the rocks by the storms, and driven to land, from the end of harvest throughout winter. The last is the top of the carn tangle, (fucus digitatus supposed), which that plant throws, commonly in the end of May, or sometimes later, especially with rains or motion of the sea, and is carried to shore.
The sea-weed produces a crop of bear, a little inferior in quality. It favours the growth and taste of esculent herbs. Lime is purchased about 2 s. the boll, Scotch, and 2 s. 7 d. English, unslaked, nearly 7 2/3 cubic feet measure; yielding, the first, 2 bolls fully, the other near three bolls slaked lime, and is used in different quantities with success.
Crop 1790. - The proportions of the different kinds of grain sown, and roots and grass, with their probable produce, and the manner in which they are disposed, are these:
362 Acres in oats, may be computed to have produced 5 bolls the acre, the produce, or an equivalent, and much more being consumed by the people.
169 Acres in bear, may have produced 7 bolls the acre, of which a part is made into meal for use, and one half may be sold to the breweries and distilleries.
18 Acres in pease, may have produced 4 bolls the acre, partly consumed, and partly sold.
54 Acres in potatoes, yielded about 30 bolls the acre, 512 pounds Amsterdam in the boll, a large share of which is consumed within the parish, and 600 or 700 bolls are carried to Aberdeen market, or exported.
70 Acres in turnip and in rye grass, and red and white clover.
114 Acres, part of which is cut for hay, produced food, with the pasture, and various fodder, for 46 working oxen, 230 cows, and the young cattle; the milk of the cows being used in families, employed for rearing calves for breed or sale, and sold in the riffling villages, or without the parish.
Few cattle are fed for market. The hill-pasture, along with the cattle, had only 209 sheep, and 12 goats. From the crop also was the support of 87 horses, almost all for the draught. The ploughs wrought by them and cattle are 33, the wains 5, and carts and carriages for stones 69.
Causeway Stones. - Oblong roundish pebbles, from 6 to 12 inches in length, are brought by sea and land carriage from the sea-shore, and are exported to different places in England for ordinary causeways. The collecting and carriage of a ton may be 1 s. 8 d.; and the quantity exported annually 400 tons.
In 1766, the granite quarries by the sea and in the hills were opened for making causeway stones to pave some streets in London. This granite is of a remarkably close texture, and of great hardness. To this new work 600 men were collected from different places. It led many families to settle for a time in the parish, and employed some horses in drawing the stones, where water conveyance could not be obtained. Decreasing rapidly from 1772, it now engages only 17 inhabitants, with a few strangers. The shape of the formed stone is something wedge-like, 12 inches long in the head, 6 broad, and 9 deep, being 2 inches lessened in length and in breadth on the base: The smaller in similar proportions. The ton may be made by a man in two days, costs 2 s. 6 d. besides the expence of powder and tools; and will pave, according to the size of the stones, from 2 3/4 to 5 square yards. 3000 Tons are now annually exported to London, Maidstone, Ramsgate, and other places. The cubic foot weighs 151 pounds. This new and heavy employment required and introduced a better breed of horses. The wages were at first too high; so that a man gained 18 s. and 20 s. in a week, which did him no good. Except by a few individuals, all was spent.
Fisheries and Salmon Fishers. - The salmon fishers, 23 in number, almost all of whom have pieces of ground, are engaged in fishing the river and the sea adjacent, and are employed at vacant hours diligently in cultivating the land.
The manner of their general payment is favourable to economy and exertion. A man has commonly so many bolls of meal, money to purchase boots, a fee, and a premium on the quantity of fish caught. According to the length of time he is engaged, and the success of the fishing, he may gain from 5 L. to 15 L. in the season.
White Fishers. - A greater number is employed in the white fishing, or that for different kinds of fish in the sea. In the villages of Cove, 24 men in 4 boats, besides 14 young and aged in yauls, are occupied in this manner. In the only other village, of Torry, 36 men are in 6 boats, fishers, and acting as pilots; and 9 in youth or age, go to Yea occasionnally in yauls; in whole 83. The ordinary fare of pilotage is 6 s. The round of fishing through the year, and different manner of it, some particulars of which are applicable to the east coast of Scotland, are these:
In January the haddock has roe, is in good condition, and ordinarily comes on the coast in squalls. Towards March, the smalll flat fish, salt fluke, and plaise, are in their prime on the land bottom. After May, the haddock recruited, and the whiting good, are taken in moderate quantities, and a few turbot. From November, the cod, in best state, is catched on the rocky ground. This is the fishing with the small line, and takes place at different distances, but commonly not far from land. The quantity of line found sufficient for a man to manage at sea and shore, contains 36 scores, 720 hooks, (in summer a few more), one yard distant from each other other, on snoods of horse hair, value 15 s.-The next fishing is with the dog line. In August frequently the sea-dog, that voracious fish, consuming all before it, comes to 4 and 3 leagues from shore, sometimes nearer, and is taken in considerable quantities; 20 yielding, when good, one Scotch pint of oil (10 d. or 1 s,) from the liver; and the fish being sold to country people, or dried for use. A stronger line, with larger hooks, for this fishing, contains 24 scores, 480 ¼ yard distant, and costs 10 s.-The last fishing is with the great line. From March or April, as the weather permits, it commences. After catching small fish for bait, the fishermen go off farther into the sea, to two and several more leagues from shore, to find the larger species. The ling is first in good state, then the hollobut, (here called turbot), and afterwards the skate in May and June. Large cod, called keilling, are also got in spring and summer. The line for all these is of considerable strength, and contains, at 4 ½ fathoms distance from each other, on snoods of one fathom, 3 scores, 60 large hooks, in value 25 s.-For the small fish they use a yaul 17 feet long, 7 L. value, dividing sometimes for despatch into two parties, and taking in a young or old man when they go short way from shore. But to the dog-fishing they use a boat 23 feet long, by 9 fully wide, with 2 small masts and fails, 15 L. in value, and have 6 men. In this slender vessel, in which they seek the larger fish towards summer, they venture off, with compass, to the bank, 14 or, 15 leagues from land, and draw their lines twice or thrice before they return.
From the statement it appears, a fisherman needs only 2 L. 10 s. for lines; and this small outlet, sometimes less, enables him, at the age of 19 or 20, to gain bread as well as his father, and therefore to marry and raise a family, which soon he generally does.
The bait for the small fish is the limpet, gathered usually by the children from the rocks; the sand eel, dug out of the sand, or caught behind the meshes of a net by baskets; a worm got in the sand, lug; some offals from the butcher-market salted, and the muscle. They go to Montrose, some of them twice or thrice in the summer, and bring a loading of the boat, at the expence of above 2 L. to each crew, at every time. The muscles, cast upon the rock where the tide overflows, hold if the weather be settled, and remain till used. If a storm prevents them catching hold, and after they are expended, it costs a fisherman from 3 d. to 8 d. for others each time he goes to sea; and this often in the winter, when the fishing of January failing, as it has done these several years, he will not gain more than their value. The division of the catch is one equal share to a man, after a seventh for the boat. The fish are carried to Aberdeen market, where they bring a price double what it was 30 years since, but variable with the quality, the rareness, and quantity.
Shell Fish. - About four years ago, a new method was brought in at the Cove for catching the lobster, which is good in spring, and the crab, which becomes so in summer.
A basket, 5 feet long, 2 feet wide, nearly a cylinder, cutting a good section off for a bale, is formed of plain wood, in flits, for the bottom, and of hoops for the curve, netted over.
From the ends the net-work is wrought inward into a narrow entrance for the fish, bait being hung within to entice it. It is sunk with a weight, having a rope and buoy. The crab enters, falls down, and cannot get out. To the effect of this simple machine, which costs 10 s. 6 d. they attribute the cloathing of their families after the hardships of 1783, and some following years. That for lobsters is of less size, and sunk near the rock foot. From 12 at nighty in summer, to several hours into morning, the fisherman goes out to sea, lays his line at dawn, which is the best time for the fishing, at slack of ebb or flow, when the current of tide does not impede, and returns with his catch. Then he draws his creels for shell-fish. The woman, who has been from 3 or 4 o'clock carrying home fuel, or engaged at the rocks, bears the fish to market, 5 miles distance to some, and comes back to household affairs. A boy or girl, from 10, 12, to 14 years of age, has been employed in gathering bait. After the necessary expences of bait and lines, a man in this hazardous manner of life, with his wife and child, has gained in there seven past unfavourable years, scarce 10 L. annually. During some later months of winter, the subsistence of the family has depended much on the work of the females. Since the commencement of the American and French war 1778, 24 men have been impressed or entered to serve their country in the fleet from the fisher families. In these late armaments, their fishing has been interrupted from fear of their young men being seized; and to procure 10 men, instead of one from each boat, who have been demanded from them, the crews have paid 106 L. 14 s. which exhausted the substance of some families, and hung long a debt on others.
Marine Plants. - To help their maintenance, the fisherwomen at times, and also some women of the country, from the beginning of summer, go to the rocks at low tide, and gather the fucus palmatus, dulse; fucus esculentus, badderlock and fucus pinnatifidus, pepper dulse, which are relished in this part of the country, and fell them.
Kelp. - The sea-ware, or bladder-fucus, grows up in three years on the rocks round the Ness and Bay chiefly, to a condition for being cut, dried, and burned into kelp. In 1791, 11 tons, of a fine quality, were made by 33 women, mostly young women, at 8 d. per day, with the direction of an overseer.
Manufacture. - The whole female part of the parish, when not occupied by these engagements, or harvest, the most, and domestic affairs, work at knitting woollen stockings, the materials of which they generally receive from manufacturers In Aberdeen. The work of the few tradesmen and others, is chiefly for the accommodation of the people.
The male children of the land people, from 9 and 10 years old, often herd cattle in summer, and those of all attend school in winter. The female children learn still earlier to knit and to read.
Population.-Births, at an average, for 17 years, from 1675 to 1691 44 1/3
for 9 years, from 1748 to 1756, 39 5/9
for 9 years, from 1783 tO 1791, 30 1/9
In the last period, proportion of males to females, 15 to 15 1/9 Average of marriages for 8 years of last period*, 10. By Dr Webster's list, in 1755, the numbers were rated at 1289 souls. In 1791, souls 1090.
Number and proportion of males to females, at different periods of life.
Male. Fem. Excess. Tot.
In 2 villages, to 10 years of age, 62 50 12 males 112
to 20 55 58 3 fem. 113
to 50 73 101 28 fem. 174
to 70 30 37 7 fem. 67
Above, 14 20 6 fem. 34
----- ----- -----
Carried over, Total, 234 266 500
*Marriages being registered frequently in the parish where the woman resides, renders the view of them fallacious, except a district, wherein they all may have been, is taken in.
209 - of Nigg.
Male. Fem. Excess. Tot.
Brought over, 234 266 500
In the country, to 10 years of age, 59 71 12 fem. 130
to 20 56 74 18 fem. 130
to 50 89 130 41 fem. 219
to 70 39 39 78
Above, 20 13 7 males 33
---- ---- --- -----
In whole, 497 593 96 fem. 1090
The families, who may be looked upon as having completed their number, have had children by present or former marriages:
57 land families, 405 children, nearly 7 1/9 each.
42 fisher families, 314 children, nearly 7 1/2 each.
Land families, or pairs of country people married who have had no children, 7;
fisher families, who have had no children, 0.
Males married, 203; unmarried, from 20 years of age, 51; widowers, 9; widows, of whom 8 had their husbands drowned, 52; 1090 persons are in 265 houses, nearly 4 1/9 to each house. In 3375 acres, the population is 162 1/3 fully in the square mile.
Division. - Two heritors not resident. Several feuers of houses in Torry and small pieces of ground, some resident, others not; 5 feuers of considerable lots of ground, 2 resident, 2 partly, 1 not.
Persons farming land, from 30 L. to 40 L. rent, 8
ditto not resident, 2
ditto from 8 L. to 20 L. rent, 18
Cottagers, 12; overseers and cottar servants, 9; male servants, 51; female servants, 51; salmon fishers, 23; sea fishers, old and young, 83; labourers, 47; quarriers, 17; masons, 2; dykers, 3; butchers partly, 3; shopkeepers, 2 or 3; taylors, 3; blacksmiths, 4; shoe and harness-makers, 2; carpenters, 3; seamen, 4; ferrymen, 2; custom-house officers, 2; cartwright, 1; house-carpenter, 1; miller, 1.
One minister, 2 schoolmasters, one a student of divinity. Seceders, above 18 years of age, 13; Episcopalians, 13; Roman Catholics, 8; and some who go seldom to any place of worship.
Among the land people, there has been a great migration, mostly down the country towards the coasts; very little among the fishers. No land man becomes a fisher. From this place, some go to learn handicrafts, to manufactures, and abroad. Since 1778, 70 have been, for a longer or shorter time, sai1ors; 44 have served in the fleet. Several natives have applied to ship-building and commerce, with spirit and success. None attach themselves to studious engagements.
Rent. - The valued rent is 1562 L. 6 s. Scots; the real rent, about 900 L. Sterling. Rent of houses, and fued land in Torry, is about 90 L. Land, on the side near Aberdeen, is let from 2 L. 12 s 6 d. per acre downward; for potatoes, ploughed, with a little assistance of carriage, for a crop at 6 L. at a medium through the parish, at 20 s.; poor ground lower.
Roads. - Since the division of the parish, many lines of road have been formed, at the expence of the feuers, and with the statute labour; but none substantially completed.
Fuel. - By peat from some remainder of moss, and from mosses in the parish of Banchory Devenick, with some turf, and a few coals, the people are expensively served.
Alehouses. - There are 8 or 9 alehouses; too many:-but the passages over the river at the ferry and bridge occasion some; and that ale constitutes a part of the diet of a fisher - many requires others.
Ecclesiastical State. - The crown is patron. The church, anciently called St. Fiacer Church, and the north eastmost house of the parish, was built before this century, and is decent. The manse was built 1759. The stipend, consisting of 52 boils bear and meal, together with the money and allowance for communion elements, may be reckoned 80 L.
The glebe of 10 acres inclosed, 18 L. The schoolmaster has a salary of 8 L. 6 s. 8 d. as session clerk and precentor, 2 L.; and with perquisites and dues of teaching, 1 s, 6 d. for English, and 2 s. for writing and arithmetic, may complete 20 L.
He is accommodated with a school-house and garden. A schoolmaster at the Cove, 3 miles distant from the parochial school, has the same accommodation, with a small gratuity.
Above 70 are taught, besides some by women.
Poor. - The number of those requiring slated help, or occasional supply, is 25, none of whom beg, except one who is above 80, goes a little about, from habit. The tunes for their supply are, interest of 50 L. of 27 L. 15 s. 0 d. was less to the poor by the Rev. Mr Richard Maltmond, who, after being 40 years Episcopal minister here, was ejected, 1710,
L. 2 10 0 Weekly collections, above 5 s. each week, 12 7 0 Collections at the communion, 5 4 5 Seat rents of a gallery built with the poor's money, 4 12 7 For the use of the mort-clothe, and other sources of charity, 0 18 0 ---------------- L. 31 12 0
After payment of the session-clerk, officer, and some other small burdens, this sum is distributed among the poor, who are satisfied. They understand their effects, at death, to belong to the funds; but this is rather a preventive of improper application, than any source of emolument, there being seldom occasion to demand hoarded substance from relations.
In 1783, by the exertions of charity within the parish, with a small allowance of meal from government, the poor were supplied, and some families extraordinarily helped, without encroachment on the funds. That season increased the spirit of industry, repressed intemperance, and introduced, by importation, some new and earlier kinds of oats into this country.-In 1787, three fishermen, loss off the Cove, left widows, children, and depending relatives, for whom, besides the collections in this and the neighbouring parish, a subscription was opened in Aberdeen, and, from the generous humanity of persons there, and some others, near 60 L. were contributed. In 1790, 6 men perished, leaving 5 widows and 25 children, one half helpless, for whom, by the heritors, by collections in the nearer parishes, and principally in Aberdeen, above 131 L. were contributed. Both there sums, under the management of some gentlemen, do afford an aid half yearly to the poor families; and the children are taught and inured to industry, promising to fill the place of their fathers in an useful, and not easily supplied employment. In view to the helpless condition of a fisherman in old age, any savings through life being almost unknown to him, in 1772 a plan was proposed to the fishers in Torry, to give in 2 s. 6 d. each, and 1 s. annually; some captains of ships, and others, adding a little gratuitously. There was an odd 2 d. in the division of their pilotage fare, which they added. By the attention of some gentlemen, natives of this place, the money, allowed to accumulate on interest, without distribution, for 10 years, has risen to 170 L. and 11 L. are annually divided; 10 s. to each old man, and 7 s. 1 d. to each widow, every half year. The odd 2 d. formerly kept for a drink to the crew, has been the principal source of increase; the means of a little enjoyment, perhaps of intemperance, becoming the supply of indigence. A similar institution has been commenced lately at the Cove.
Customs. - In the month of May, many of the lower ranks from around the adjacent city, come to drink of a well in the Bay of Nigg, called Downy-well; and proceeding a little farther, go over a narrow pass, The Brigg of ae Hair*, (*Bridge of one hair.) to Downy-hill, a green island in the sea where young people cut their favourites names in the sward. It seems to be the remains of some superstitious respect to the fountain, and retreat of a reputed saint, gone into an innocent amusement.
The Bay, from the corruption probably of his name, was formerly called San Fittick's Bay +. (+Sanctus Fitticus, or Monfutucus, perhaps.)
On the sudden death of their relations, or fear of it, by the fee turning dangerous, the fisher people, especially the females, express their sorrow by exclamation of voice, and gesture of body, like the eastern nations, and those in early state of civilization.
Antiquities. - Whatever purpose cairns may have served, the two principal ones here could have answered well for watch towers, and kindling fires on them to advertise the country, on the approach of hostile ships.
A few years ago, in removing the green sod of the eastmost of 4 small conical hills, above the inner entrance of the harbour, there was found a broad covering stone, two side stones above two feet long, and two end stones shorter, without mark of instrument, and within them an urn 6 inches high, formed of dark baked earths with a yellowish crust, figured simply, Lately the remaining ruins of an edifice, belonging to the Abbey of Arbroath, were dug up, on the upper part of the harbour. A burial ground was nigh. Silver pieces, struck on Queen Mary's marriage, 1559, and others, were found. It retains the name of Abbot's Walls.
Disadvantages. - On the northern part of the bank, above the sea, and facing it, in the beginning of harvest, some years, the wind, in a south-east storm, carries the sea spray up gullies, and over the face of the rock, and some salt dew, a considerable way on the land, which hurts the crop of ripening oats. Timely rain may recover it; if not, it comes to no farther maturity, and the straw is little fit for use, being too laxative. This harm is called blasting. By the temporary and excessive gain in bringing to shore prohibited goods, to which the seafaring people here are little tempted now, no solid acquisition was made; it commonly has been spent to their moral prejudice: And when one has been hurt in the employment, he has been left to languish neglected. The poor have sustained, for many years past, the loss of 5 per cent. on the weekly collections, by bad copper. Such coin being at last refused, by those who, for just debt, have a right to good money, must, in the end, generally be thrown in to the poor; who, in this part of the country, with the support of the sick in the Infirmary of Aberdeen, in the collections made for it, have suffered much. To injustice in importing such money, there is inhumanity.
When the fishing of January fails, the fishers are put to severe hardships in the last winter months; especially the laying out as much, or more, for muscle-bait, than they can gain, discourages them from going to sea so frequently, or so well prepared as they might do. Indeed the condition of the fishers on this coast needs to be relieved. A hardy race of men, more prolific than any other, so cheaply out-fitted to gain bread and raise a family, employed in bringing in an additional quantity of food, affording such a number to the fleet for our common defence, and giving such a sum for substitutes of one from each boat; they certainly deserve of their country, and do essential service. At the same time, their gain for a livelihood, were they sensible of it, is inferior now to that of many other ways of life; and by continuance, they may be tempted, as some of them elsewhere have been, to change it for the chance of another. In addition to such generous and humane exertions for their families on disaster, as have already been made, some means promising benefit seem to be these: To preserve the coast open to them for bait; to make the muscle, for the purpose of bait, cheap; to order the number required from them for the fleet, so as to put them no more in fear of impressing, which interrupts their business; nor to such expence for substitutes, which has oppressed their families; to render the wages of those who have died on board his Majesty's ships recoverable at a low expence, which, it is hoped, the bill introduced by Mr Dundas will do; and to make prize-money recoverable. An experiment might be made to improve the distant fishery. If a few decked vessels, which could weather a little rough sea, were employed on the banks the boats could deposit their cargoes with them, and could have re-course to them in danger, while the crews might fish with the hand line. The fishers presently fee 2, 5, 7, and more Dutch ships at a time on this bank so engaged; and they observe them catching many more cod and ling than themselves, which they attribute to the bait being hung at some distance from the bottom by the hand-line, where there fish swim; while their own ground lines are sitter for taking skate and hallibut, which keep by the bottom.
Melioration. - The city of Aberdeen is hemmed in by the sea on the east, by Old Aberdeen on the north, and by the river Dee on the south: It is only open, for any extent, to the west. Hence the high rent of land around it, perhaps among the higher in the kingdom. It has been often mentioned, that easy access to this parish, by a bridge over the Dee, at the nearest proper situation, might enlarge the space of gardening ground. It would certainly tends in a high degree, to meliorate the northern side of this parish. Perhaps a road to the south, less steep than the present one up Tollo-hill, might be the consequence.
The quarries have hurt some parts of the hill, but there remains a considerable range of pasture for sheep, and the introduction of as many as it will carry seems necessary for filling such a waste, and for the improvement of the country.
Without a melioration of the roads, horses will be able to do little on them in winter; even people can hardly come through the western part of them to church; some do not.
Character. - The people, on the whole, are not defective in understanding, and are very industrious. They are decent, content with their lot, sober, and charitable: It were to be wished that their impressions of religion were deeper. No crime, of a heinous nature, has been committed in the memory of any living. Among the fishers, a strife of words may be at a time, which is soon laid; they are ready to seize any thing in the sea, whose owner is not ascertained, not to plunder the wreck; but of taking a muscle from the sea-bed of another, or keeping back a penny of the common fish, a suspicion was never heard. They are not destitute of the spirit of adventure and sympathy. On one of the boats off the Cove harbour being overturned in a storm, the men clinging to the bottom of it; their companions were just come in with hazard from the same danger, oppressed by toil, and sorrow at the spectacle, when one of them said, "We live "together, let us die together;" and rousing his fellows by his example, run down, launched a boat, and rescued three out of the four perishing people.
VOL. VII. E e
NUMBER XIX.
PARISH OF NIGG.
(County of Kincardine.- PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN.)
THE REV. ALEXANDER THOM, MINISTER.
I. – TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. – THE word Nigg in Gaelic signifies a nook or peninsula.
The chain of mountains which nearly divides Scotland, called the Grampians, terminate on the east, at the German Ocean, in this parish. The parish forms also the north-east point of the county of Kincardine. In shape, it is a peninsula.
Extent, Boundaries, &c. – Its greatest length is about 5 miles, its breadth about 3, its extent about 15 square miles. 0n the north-east, the land turning into a ness or headland, runs out into the sea, and is called the Girdleness. On the north-west, it is washed by the River Dee, and the tide in Aberdeen harbour; and on the south-west, it is bounded by the parish of Banchory Devenick; on the east it presents to the sea a bold face of rock, from 60 to 80 feet high, covered with grass and various herbs and flowers: then there is a rising bank, arable from the top of the rock distance, increasing towards the southern extremity, – and above, towards the west, an ascending heathy ridge of hill, rising to about 200 feet above the sea, through the whole breadth of the parish, and crowned with two cairns, which are seen several leagues off at sea, and serve to direct those who sail near the coast.
During the late war, a flag-staff was erected upon the highest one, to give notice of the approach of enemies' ships. The north side of the parish consists of two haughs on the river and the side of the hill ending in the Girdleness, and of a valley and hill beneath the heathy ridge above described.
A part of the soil is clayey, but the far greater part is black and loamy, of various depths, and on different bottoms. The haughs, the valley, and sides, as well as tops of the two hills to the north, and the bank to the south, are in a state of cultivation, particularly the whole of Torry Hill, (so called from its vicinity to the village of Torry,) the top of which, a few years ago, was in a state of nature, encumbered with stones and covered with furze.
A broad belt of above a mile, more or less, throughout the middle and the whole length of the parish, with the exception of some acres (perhaps one hundred) lately cultivated, and others in progress of trenching, is unarable, wild, and uninhabited, consisting of moss and heath, intermixed with a prodigious number of surface and sunk stones.
Coast, &c. – A mile from the south-west boundary of the parish, there is a natural harbour, formed with very little artificial help, -- the Cove, fit for boats, which accommodates the fishermen of a village adjoining, and is often a place of refuge to boats when overtaken with a north-easterly storm. In the neighbourhood of this place, there is a cave entering from the sea, several yards inland, and terminating in a beach, and covered with solid rock, from which, probably the village has received its name. In the rocks along the coast, there are several of these caverns or excavations, arched in a very wonderful manner, and running a great way under ground.
There are nine boats in the Cove, with six men to each.
About three-quarters of a mile farther northward, is Burnbank Harbour, less safe, – where there has been a white-fishing settlement for a considerable period. The original settlers throve well, but now it seems to be falling off, probably owing to the less favourable terms of their leases. There are two boats in Burnbank; there were formerly three.
About half a mile still further north, is Altens Harbour, formerly a considerable fishing settlement, now wholly deserted by fishermen.
A few of the houses are occupied by crofters and as offices to farmers. The unfitness of the harbour, and the want of suitable turf and moss to cure haddocks, &c. seem to have been the cause of the desertion of this settlement.
Another natural inlet or harbour, about a mile south of the Aberdeen harbour, called Cow-cash, on the Balnagask property, has been frequently pointed out to the proprietor, by fishermen, as a suitable situation for a fishing village. But the proprietor has not come as yet to any determination on the matter.
There is a free open sea along this coast. The water rises at spring tides thirteen feet, and the height of the stream is, at forty-three minutes past noon, at full and change. The tide of flood runs south-west and by south; that of ebb, north-east, half north, and at the rate of three knots, and at spring-tides four knots in the hour.
From six to eight fathoms at the foot of the rock, the bottom deepens, shelving offshore, with sandy, rocky, and various ground, and sometimes rising till it sinks to ninety fathoms, at the distance of ten or eleven leagues from land; then it ascends on the fishing bank, called the Long Forties, to 33, 34,and 35 fathoms, a few leagues over, until it falls into the depth of the North Sea.
The face of the country is bare, being destitute of wood. A great part of the hill of Tullos, part of the Grampians, was planted a good many years ago, with trees of different kinds, by the late Mr David Morice on the north side of the hill, which is sheltered from the sea. The plantation has thriven well, but on the top and side of the hill, which is exposed to the sea, it has failed.
Bays. – In former ages, trees seem to have grown to the edge of the sea, in the mouth of the harbour, along the river Dee, and in the valley adjoining to the bay of Nigg. This bay is semicircular, about a quarter of a mile in diameter, The sea must have flown a considerable way up the low grounds in this bay, at an early period. But from the great quantity of small stones, perhaps brought down the river Dee, about a quarter of a mile north, and thrown back on the land in this bay, with other alluvial matter, it, does not flow nearly so far as it had done formerly. It is now kept off by large hirsts of small smoothed pebbles, thrown up at different periods.
Some have accounted for these accumulations of small stones, by supposing (which is not improbable) that the Dee, at one time, run down the vale of Nigg. Perhaps the burn that runs down the valley, running through soft ground, at its meeting with the ocean might have been the cause of the formation of the bay of Nigg, the earthy matter being constantly washed away, and the stones accumulating from time to time, and forming the hirsts of pebbles. There seem to be three distinct collections of these small stones, formed at different periods. The first or farthest inland of these (about one hundred and fifty yards from the sea) is now covered with vegetable mould, and is cultivated for crops of various kinds. It rises from twelve to fifteen feet above the present level of the sea. Towards the south side of it, an excavation was made in the year 1804, near a burn running through the low ground in the valley above, to the sea, and several feet deeper than the bottom of the burn,--for the purpose of forming a drain to carry off the water collected in the low ground, by a passage to the sea through the beach. In making this excavation, the workmen cut through the timbers of a vessel of considerable size. The depth at which they cut was about nine or ten feet from the surface, and three or four feet beneath the bed of the burn. The distance of the spot where the vessel lay is about an hundred yards from high water-mark. At what period this ship was thrown in, and how so great a quantity of matter requisite to fill up the space above it was accumulated, whether gradually or at once, it is impossible to say.
There is another small bay north of the Bay of Nigg, and close by the Girdleness Light-house, called Grey Hope, memorable for the loss of the Greenland ship, the Oscar, which happened there in the year 1813, with fifty-five persons on board.
Climate. – The air is healthy: along the coast, it is fresh, and from the influence of the sea is rather chilly. Yet the frost is less intense, – snow continues for a shorter time, and the crop ripens sooner, than in places more inland. The east and north-east winds prevail a good deal. And sometimes, particularly in May, mists come off the sea, and also in autumn, destructive to the crop on the coast. From the moderate quantity of rain which falls upon, this east coast, and from the light loamy sandy soil absorbing it soon, and from frequent breezes, the ground soon dries, and allows grain to be sown early, and the crop soon ripens in general.
Springs. – There are several chalybeate springs about the centre of the parish, though not used medicinally. Springs of good water abound everywhere throughout the parish.
There is one lake in the parish, the Loch of Loirston, on the south-west boundary, oblong in form, covering about twenty-seven acres, and supplying water to a meal-mill, a bone-mill, and sawmill. In some of the old leases, the liberty of a road is given to the tenants in the lower part of the parish, to drive their cattle to this loch for watering, – a circumstance which must have been occasioned by an uncommon drought at that time in the country.
Rivers. – The River Dee, which forms the harbour of Aberdeen, after a course of eighty miles North East, falls here into the sea. On this side of the river and harbour is Torry Pier, where ships lie to occasionally. It was much more frequented by shipping formerly than now. Sometime ago, a Greenland Company had a boiling establishment there. The river is famous for salmon, although there are not now so many caught in it as formerly, owing to the number of stake and bag-nets at the mouth of the river, and along the coast north and south, and probably also to the, annoyance given by the harbour improvements, and the constant plying of steam-boats, and to the noxious refuse of so many manufactories that run into the river. One of the salmon-fishing stations on the Dee, the Mid Chingle, formerly productive, has been given up, as not covering the expense.
Geology. – The whole parish abounds with rocks of granite, of a very hard consistence, of various colours, blue and purple, &c. In some places, there are large distinct veins of quartz running through the rock. In the low grounds near the bay of Nigg, various alluvial deposits are found, such as white clay, sand, gravel, and rolled smooth stones; and above these, in some places has been formed peat moss to the depth of five or six feet. Imbedded therein have been found the remains of trees, viz. fir, alder, and oak, lying buried at the depth of four or five feet. On the top of the high hill, part of the Grampians, there are several little mounds composed of rounded pebbles, gravel, and sand, in pretty regular strata, such as still appear on the beach below.
Fishes in the River. - Salmon, during October and November, go up the rivers to deposit their spawn. Some of the earlier spawners return to the sea generally about the end of December, or in January. The lobster and crab are found here in their seasons. The latter is used by the fishers along the coast as bait, as is also the limpet, a small shell-fish gathered from the rocks, usually by the younger branches of the family.
Botany. – The artichoke is a plant, to the growth of which the climate and soil are particularly favourable.
Marine Plants. – The sea-weed bladder-fueus grows on the rocks, round the ness and bay of Nigg; and every three years, is fit for being cut, dried, and burned for kelp. But this manufacture, which gave employment to a great many young fisherwomen in this parish, under the direction of an overseer, has been given up for some years past.
Several fisherwomen, in the spring and summer, go to the rocks at low tide and gather dulse (Fucus palmatus), bladderlock (Fucus esculentus) and pepper dulse (Fucus pinnatifidus), which many in this country are fond of, and which they sell in Aberdeen.
II.-CIVIL HISTORY.
The Bay of Nigg was formerly called San Fittick's (Sanctus Fitticus,) and the church St Fittick's Church. He was perhaps some reputed saint or hermit, who had fixed his solitary retreat in a retired place, in the neighbourhood of the bay, the probable site of which is still to be traced.
The whole of this parish, before the Reformation, belonged to the abbacy of Arbroath. After the Reformation, one-half of it came to a predecessor of Mr Menzies of Pitfoddels, the present possessor, the town of Aberdeen holding the other half.
By the arbitration of two gentlemen, the parish was divided into two parts in the year 1786, the town of Aberdeen obtaining the half along the lower part of the harbour, and round the coast, and Mr Menzies the other part, which went up the river and into the interior. Mr Menzies divided his grounds into small farms, which he let in lease for nineteen years and a lifetime, after the expiry of the nineteen years. Three or four of the liferenters still survive.
The Town-Council of Aberdeen, soon after, feued out their share into nine moderate lots, at from L.30 to L.90 a year each. A spur has thus been given to industry and improvement, by which the lands in this parish have been rendered very valuable. Some of the lots since that period have had different proprietors.
Land-owners. – The chief landholders at present are,
John Menzies, Esq., Pitfoddels; Alexander Davidson, Esq. of Balnagask and North and South Kirkhill;- John Morice, Esq. of Tullos and Middleton; Alexander Crombie, Esq. of North Loirston; James Ferguson, Esq. of Altens; Alexander Muir, Esq. of South Loirston, and the treasurer and master of wortifications of Aberdeen; none of whom are resident.
Parochial Registers. – The oldest register belonging to this parish is a quarto register of baptisms, kept in tolerable order, the earliest entry of which is dated August 10, 1675. There are also three folio volumes in good order, of the register of doctrine and discipline, the first entry of which is dated December 6, 1757.
Antiquities. – Abbots Walls are the ruins of a house that belonged to the Abbot of Arbroath, on the hatgh opposite to Aberdeen, where it is said he spent some months in the summer.
Several tumuli are found on the hills. In such of them as have been opened, nothing very remarkable has been found.
Modern Buildings. – A few years ago. a handsome new church was built in a centrical situation, with a square tower for a bell and clock. It is built of granite, on an eminence, and seen at a great distance. It has seats for 900 persons, more than sufficient for the present population of the parish. It cost L.1800.
Girdleness Light-House. – A light-house was founded in the year 1831, and finished in 1833, on the Girdleness, near the mouth of the harbour, by order of the Commissioners of Northern Light-houses and under the direction of Robert Stevenson, Esq. their engineer.
The building consists of a circular tower, with oil and fuel stores in the lower part of it. There are two dwelling-houses one storey each, for the accommodation of the light-keepers. The basement course of the tower is laid at fifty feet above the medium high water level; and from that level the tower rises to the height of 116 feet which, together with the high lantern of 15 feet, makes the extreme height 131 feet above the basement course; and the extreme diameter at the basement is 23 feet 5 inches. In the tower, there are two lanterns or lights 7O feet apart. The first or lower lantern, which is a 28 sided polygon, is placed at 46 feet 6 inches above the basement course, or 96 feet 6 inches above the sea. The wall of the tower is here reduced in thickness to 3 feet 4 inches, or 17 feet 5 inches of external diameter, to make room for the lantern sill, and a balcony, forming together a breadth of 5 feet 5 inches.
The balcony is supported by a strong corbal cornice. The lantern is formed of sashes surmounted by a cornice, all of cast iron, and covered with a roof of copper. The lantern is glazed towards the sea, with plates of glass 28 inches square, and one-fourth of an inch in thickness, and towards the land with plates of cast iron, ornamented with characteristic figures. The higher lantern is placed upon the top of a parapet wall of polished sandstone, which rises above the higher corbal cornice 5 feet 5 inches forming a balcony of 3 feet breadth on the top of the corbals, and on the exterior of the light-room parapet wall. This lantern is a 10-sided polygon, glazed. (as already described for the lower lantern) with plates of glass towards the sea, of 27 inches square, in three tiers, and towards the land with plates of cast iron. The whole is covered with a dome of copper. This light is 170 feet above the medium level of high water.
The dwelling-houses are very compact and comfortable. The one house contains a room and kitchen for the principal keeper, and a parlour and bed-room for the general inspector. The other house contains a room and kitchen for the assistant keeper, a bedroom for artificers and a work-shop. The tower, the oil, and fuel stores are separated from the dwelling-houses by an open court, 70 feet in length, and 40 feet in breadth, neatly laid with granite pavement. The access to the lantern is by a stone stair, built upon a wall of brick 6 inches in thickness, and separated from the stone wall by a void of 3 inches in width through its whole extent. The steps amount to 189, the rise of each being 7 inches.
There are about ten acres of land for a garden and park ground, intended as a cow's grass for each light-keeper. The whole is enclosed by a stone wall.
This lighthouse was first lighted on Tuesday the 15th October 1833.*
III.-POPULATION.
In 1755, the population of this parish amounted to 1289, and perhaps it continued nearly the same for some years after.
About seventy or eighty years ago, the granite quarries in this parish, which are abundant and of an excellent quality, particularly for pavement, were opened, and gave employment to about 600 quarriers. Their subsequent success has been various, – the stones being squared, dressed, and carried to the harbour of Aberdeen, and thence shipped to London to pave the streets of the metropolis. But of late, the demand has very much diminished, and now #For some weeks before, the following notice was given in Aberdeen newspapers, viz. "The Girdleness Light-House is placed on the headland of that name, in the county of Kincardine. It is situated in Latitude 57°8' north, and in Longitude 2° 3' west, and in immediately off it lies the sunken rock called the Girdle. This light-house bears from the north pier of Aberdeen, S. by W. distant 1220 yards; – from Buchanness Light-house S. W. 1/2 W. distant twenty-five miles, and from the Bell Rock Light-house N. E. 1/4 N. distant forty-three miles, The two lanterns at this time station are open or glazed from N. N. E. to W. S. W. 1/2 W. and intermediate points easterly and southerly. The bearings are taken by compass, and the variation is 26° 45/ W.
"Girdleness will be known to mariners as a double light, exhibiting from the same tower two fixed lights, like stars of the first magnitude, the one over the other. But to a distant observer the lights will appear as one, having an elongated form. These lights will be from oil, with reflectors placed in lanterns elevated respectively 115 and 185 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen at the distance of 13 and 16, miles, and at intermediate distances according, to the state of the weather."--By order of the Commissioners of the Northern Light Houses," &c very few men are employed in them; in consequence of which, the population has decreased. The quarriers have left the parish, and gone, to other places in quest of employment.
The driving of these stones to Aberdeen, kept up the population in part, and was of great benefit to the tenants, by employing their carts and horses and servants, and enabling them to pay high rents.
A considerable number of the tenants keep a good many milk cows, and send their milk, morning and evening, for sale to Aberdeen, by which means they are enabled to pay high rents still for their grounds, and, with much toil and drudgery, procure a living for themselves and families. This also, in part, contributes to keep up the population.
The number of the population residing in the village of Torry is, 370 Cove, 393 Burnbank, 60 Charlestown 198 In the country, 663 Total, 1684
Average number of births for 7 years previous to January 1834, 50 marriages, 14
Burials of persons belonging to the parish 18; strangers 26 The average number of persons under 18 years of age, 624 betwixt 15 and 30, 422 30 and 50, 451 50 and 70, 187 There are two persons betwixt 90 and 100.
There are no nobility, nor persons of independent fortune residing in the parish.
There may be, perhaps, about 20 unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, residing in the parish, upwards of fifty years of age; and double that number of unmarried women, upwards of 45.
The whitefishers in the fishing villages marry early in life, and in general have numerous families.
The average number of children in each family is nearly 3.
There are 3 fatuous persons in the parish, 4 blind, 2 deaf.
The habits of the people are in general cleanly; and the style and manner of their dress are very different from what they were fifty or sixty years ago.
In some farms, where a number of servants, are required, a bothey is used.
Farm men servants seldom remain long in one place; some of them change almost every half-year. Feeing markets are favourable to this change; and now places are easily obtained without any recommendation from the former master. Changes are by no means so frequent among female servants, who, when of good character, are here highly valued for their services in the work of the dairy.
The people in general enjoy a tolerable degree of comfort, and the advantages of society, and appear contented with their situation. They are, on the whole, intelligent, decent, sober, industrious, and well-behaved.
Poaching in game, particularly in partridges and hares, prevails very much in this parish: and smuggling, which prevailed in former times to a great degree, has now been discontinued, through the vigilance of the Preventive Service, who are, in general, sober, quiet, and well-behaved, and set a good example to the parishioners.
IV.-INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. – There are 1885 acres, imperial measure, in the parish, arable and in cultivation, and 1652 moss and moor, waste and uncultivated. A great part of the hills, particularly where granite quarries abound and have been opened, it would be impossible ever to improve into cultivated land; but the greater part of the presently unimproved ground may, at considerable expense of labour and money, be turned to good account.
About thirty years ago, Mr Menzies portioned out a waste hill on his property, in different parts of five or six acres to different tenants, on two-nineteen years leases. The first nineteen years, they were to pay a small rent, which was to rise during the other nineteen, a small sum (L.10) being allowed them, to enable them to build a house and offices. The greater part of the hill, which was formerly waste, and worth little or nothing, is now in cultivation, and a village called Charlestown, containing nearly 200 inhabitants, is formed on the property. The people in general are poor, and not able to lay out much in improving their ground, otherwise it might be made more productive than it is. A considerable number of small farms of different sizes have been lately let on similar forms and are now in progress of improvement. More than a hundred acres, which, a few years ago, were worth nothing, are now in cultivation, and bearing good crops.
Mr Lewis Crombie, on a farm of North Loirston, belonging to Dr Alexander Crombie, has improved, by trenching, draining, enclosing, and manuring, at a very great expense, thirty acres of the most barren untowardly ground that can well be supposed, and brought it to produce rich and abundant crops of grain, turnips, potatoes, and carrots, &c.
Mr James Ferguson, proprietor of Altens, (which property he purchased only two years ago,) has improved sixty acres of waste lands, and built new dwelling-houses, covered with slate, and new steadings to his tenants.
Similar improvements have also of late years been made on South Loirston.
Planting. – There are about fifty or sixty acres of planting in the parish. The trees planted are chiefly Scotch firs, pines, larch, oak, beech, elms, lanes, alders, &c. In favourable situations, where they are sheltered from the sea, they thrive tolerably well: in exposed situations, they fail.
Rent. – The average rent of arable land per acre in the parish is about L.4 or L.4, 10s. per acre,--as on the lands of Tullos and Middleton, and in other places in the parish, which are cultivated by crofters, possessing from five to twelve acres each, the rent of which they principally pay by selling milk; many of whom also have other means of livelihood, such as quarrying, and driving stones to Aberdeen. Some, in the upper part of the parish, cast and drive peats from the mosses to Aberdeen for sale.
Some of the subtenants are poor, and unable to do much in improving their small patches of ground. But the other farmers in the parish, particularly on the river side, and on the sea-coast, are substantial, and some of them opulent, managing their farms in the most improved style. They follow a five rotation course of cropping.
Mr Menzies's principal farm in this parish, (Torry farm,) which is mostly enclosed with substantial stone dikes, and in a high state of cultivation, is managed by an overseer; as are also the lands of Balnagask and North Kirkhill, in the proprietor's own possession.
Some of these lands are let annually in crop for potatoes, at the rate of from L.10 to L.14 per acre. And some of them are let, on a short lease, at the rate of L.5, 5s. per acre.
From the system pursued on these farms, little attention is paid to the rearing and improvement of cattle. The horses employed in agriculture by the substantial farmers are of the best kind. Fifty or sixty years ago, sheep were in great abundance in this parish; but the new mode of agriculture has reduced their number. As the climate is mild, and snow seldom continues long on the ground, some shepherds come every winter from Strathdon and Perthshire, with flocks of sheep, which feed on the hills during winter, and return home in the beginning of the lambing season.
Manure. – A manure commonly used by farmers in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Nigg, is sea-ware. It consists of green slake washed down the river, and of various marine plants, torn from the rocks by storms. It is brought to land in the Bay of Nigg, at the mouth of the river, and at the Bay of Grey-Hope, after a storm. The wind which blows from the land, and which would carry out to sea a substance floating on the surface, brings into the shore this substance swimming at the bottom, in a contrary direction. Another manure used is street dung, which is purchased at Aberdeen, from 3s. to 5s. a load, according to the quality.
Substantial and convenient houses of stone and lime, and covered with slate, are now built for the tenants, with excellent steadings of the same materials. Several of these were built on the lands of south and north Loirston some years ago. And Mr Ferguson is at present building houses of that description on his lands of Altens, and enclosing his fields with substantial stone dikes.
Recent Improvements. – The principal improvements which have recently been made in this parish are the following: Between thirty and forty years ago, an Act of Parliament was procured for a turnpike road to the south, with a gradual ascent from the bridge of Dee, on the south-west part of this parish. And about five years ago, another turnpike road through the middle of the parish, for about three miles from north to south, was made.
At the north extremity of it, a suspension bridge, which connects it with Aberdeen, was erected. The bridge and the road were made at the expense of the heritors, and cost about L.10,000 Sterling. A pontage is collected to pay, in part, the interest of that sum. There are several other cross roads in the parish, one particularly, which was made many years ago, from the old Bridge of Dee to the Bay of Nigg, and which is kept in repair from the commutation money. And last year, Mr Ferguson of Altens made, at his own expense, a new road for the benefit of his tenants, extending from the middle turnpike to the sea-coast, above a mile.
Quarries. – There is only one kind of quarries in the parish viz. stone quarries. The stone of the mountains and sea-coast of this parish is a very hard granite. The stones are principally wrought for the London market for pavement, called causeway-stones. They are formed into oblong squares of it wedge-like form, 6 to 12 inches long, 6 broad, and 9 deep. They are much better shaped and dressed than formerly. There are two separate departments in the business,--that of the quarrier, who blocks out the materials, and that of the causeway-man, who dresses them.
The latter, if a good hand, will make nearly double the wages of the former. When the quarries were first opened about seventy years ago, there were 600 or 700 men employed in them; of late, the demand from London has in a great measure ceased, and most of the hands have left the parish, and gone to other places in quest of employment.
Fisheries. – There are two kinds of fisheries carried on in the parish, viz. salmon and white-fishing. Salmon-fishing is carried on in the river Dee, at the mouth of the river, in the Bay of Nigg, and along the coast. On the river, the salmon-fishing is still carried on, as in former times, by coble-nets; but at the mouth of the river, on the sea, and in the Bay of Nigg, and along the coast, by bag-nets. This is a modern invention, and is universally used now in fishing for salmon on the sea-coast. Stake-nets and fly-nets are used on the sea-beach, and bag-nets in the inlets on the sea-coast. This mode of fishing has been carried on, only for a few years, in the Bay of Nigg. About fourteen years ago, a few partners got a lease of the salmon-fishing in the Bay of Nigg from the magistrates of Aberdeen, for twelve years, at the rent of L.10 a-year for the first seven, and L.20 a-year for the remaining five years of the lease. When the lease expired, the liberty of fishing in the Bay of Nigg was again advertised to be let by public roup, and carried by the same partners at the astonishing yearly rent of L.660; fourteen years before, this fishing was not worth a farthing. These partners have carried it on for two or three years on the new lease; not as formerly, by drawing their nets to land, as in coble-fishing, but by bag-nets, a mode which requires fewer hands, but more expensive materials.
The same mode of fishing is now carried on at the Cove, at Altens, and other places in the parish, and considerable quantities of salmon are caught in these places, as well as in the Bay of Nigg. The salmon-fishings are very much encouraged by the quick conveyance of the fish in ice to the London market, by steamboats.
Some years ago, these fishings were much annoyed by seals in the Bay of Nigg. At last, one of the partners contrived a net for the purpose of catching seals, which has been found to answer. The plan of the seal-net is very simple. It nearly resembles the net used in killing salmon on, but is much less. A salmon, as a bait, is made fast in the bag of the net, and to the fish is fastened a cork, which floats on the surface. As soon as the seal catches hold of the fish, the cork instantly goes under water, which being observed from the shore, the door of the net is immediately closed by pulling a rope. The seal then becomes an easy prey, being confined in the net.
The salmon-fishermen generally engage for a certain rate of wages per week, and according to the quantity of fish caught.
Those who reside in this parish have, for the most part, a small piece of ground, which they cultivate at leisure hours; others employ themselves in different kinds of labour.
White-fishing. – There are three fishing villages in this parish, viz. Torry, Cove, and Burnbank. The villages of Torry and Cove are inhabited by persons of different trades and occupations, as well as by fishermen. Burnbank is inhabited exclusively by the latter. In Torry, there are now fewer boats and fishermen than in former times: but there are still three boats with six men to each.
In the Cove, there were, in former times, only five boats; now there are nine, with six men to each. In Burnbank there are three boats, with six men to each.
The employment of the fishermen varies according to the season of the year. In January and May, haddocks are in season, and are taken not far from land. In this fishing there is often much annoyance from dog-fish which destroy the lines, and even eat off the haddocks from the hooks. Fishing with the great line takes place in March and April. Cod, ling, turbot, &c. are caught at the distance of several leagues from land.
There is great difficulty in procuring bait for the white-fishing; and mussels are brought for the purpose from Montrose and other places, at considerable expense: but now the mussel-beds or scalps, that have been formed in the spill water channel of the river Dee, will supply the neighbourhood with abundance of good bait, at a moderate rate.
Saith fishing with rod and fly-hook forms an amusement in the summer to many, and considerable quantities of this small fish are taken, in this way, from the rocks at the sea-side and the mouth of the river.
The fishermen in Torry carry haddocks and other fish directly to the Aberdeen market. But the fishermen of Cove and Burnbank, after gutting, cleaning, splitting, salting, and then smoking them with turf in a particular way, sell them in Aberdeen and other places as Finnan haddocks; and they are equally good and as well cured as those of Finnan, and relished by many as a great delicacy.
Herring Fishing. – In the middle of July, the herring fishery commences on the north coast. From Torry three boats proceed for the purpose; from Cove, nine; and from Burnbanks, three.
The boats are from ten to fourteen tons burden, and fitted up with masts, sails, cordage, and nets, at considerable expense. They carry each five or six men, partners in the adventure. Each boat is under an engagement to some merchant, to furnish a certain number of cranes or barrels of herring, perhaps 250. Last year, they were very unsuccessful. Indeed, the herring, fishing, upon the whole, has been an unprofitable concern for the fishermen. They are generally absent at the North-Sea-fishing, for six weeks or two months.
Shell-Fish. – Lobster and crab are fished at Cove and Burnbanks: and the method of catching them is by a cylindrical basket or creel, with a small hole in it for entrance, so constructed that the fish enters in and cannot get out again. In this, they place a bait and sink it in the sea, at a little distance from the rocks.
Produce. – The average gross amount of raw produce is as follows, viz:
1. Produce of grain, oats, and barley, L. 4022 0 0 2. Turnips, 1682 0 0 3. Potatoes, 560 0 0 4. First year&s grass, 1780 0 0 5. Pasture grass, 712 0 0 L. 8756 0 0
About two-thirds of the turnip crop raised in the parish is consumed at home, for the purpose of procuring dairy produce, which meets with a tolerable demand in Aberdeen. The other third is carried to the same place, and sold to cowfeeders at about a third more price, as a compensation for the carriage.
Manufactures. – Some years ago kelp was manufactured in the bay of Nigg, and gave employment to a good many young women, but for many years past it has been discontinued, there being no demand for it. There was also, several years ago, a salt manufactory in the bay of Nigg, but it also has been given up. Lint was formerly sown and manufactured by private families in the parish, now there is no manufacture of the kind.
V.--PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Town, &c. – The nearest market town is Aberdeen. There are two bridges over the river Dee, in this parish, viz. The old Bridge of Dee, of seven arches, built by Bishop Dunbar, three hundred years ago, and a suspension bridge about a mile below, nearer Aberdeen, called Wellington Bridge, erected in 1829 at the sole expense of the heritors.
Ecclesiastical State. – The old church (which was situated in the north-east extremity of the parish) having fallen into decay, a new one was erected by the heritors in a centrical situation, in the year 1829, the distance of which from any part of the parish is not more than two miles and a half. It is a handsome church, will a square tower for a bell and clock, built on an eminence, and seen at a great distance. It cost L. 1800. The Crown is patron. It affords accommodation for 900 sitters, – a larger number than usually resorts to it. It was built with a view to the increased population of the parish, which it was supposed would take place in consequence of the suspension-bridge across the Dee; but that increase of population has not yet been so great as was expected.
The manse war built in 1759. It has frequently been repaired and enlarged. It is two miles from the new church.
The extent of the present glebe is about ten acres of ground, as good as any in the parish, and of the value of L. 5 per acre. Some acres of the glebe being marshy, and often covered with water, were drained and very much improved, at considerable expense, by my predecessor, Dr Cruden, who lived for forty years after, to enjoy the profit of his improvements, and left the glebe in a high state of cultivation to his successor. The stipend being one of the small livings of the church, is made up to L. 150 by the augmentation of L. 67, 16s. 6d. yearly from the Exchequer.
There are no chapels of ease, nor any Dissenting meeting-houses in this parish, and very few Dissenters of any kind. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well attended. The average number of communicants is 603.
There are not more than two or three Dissenting families in the parish.
Education. – There are four schools in the parish. – 1, Parochial school. The schoolmaster has the medium salary, a pretty good house, and small garden. Amount of school fees about L.20; emolument from session clerk's fees and perquisites, L. 6, – 2, School at Cove. The schoolmaster has a small house and garden, with a small salary arising from the interest of money bequeathed by Dr Cruden and others, amounting to about L.6 per annum besides school-fees, amounting to about L.15 per annum. --3. School at Charlestown. The schoolmaster has a small house and garden, with school-fees amounting to about L.12. For two years past, he has received each year L.5, a donation from the Trustees of the late Mr Donaldson; but it is uncertain whether or not this will be continued. --4. There is another school in Torry. The schoolmaster has no free school-house, and no salary. He depends for his living upon the small school-fees.
A few scholars are taught to read, by women, without any salary; one in Torry, and another in Cove.
There are very few persons betwixt six and fifteen years of age, or above it, that cannot read or write. The people in general are alive to the benefits of education; but among the white-fishermen and others, there are some so poor as to be unable, however willing, to give their children the necessary education. The session pay for some poor scholars, from the interest of small sums bequeathed for that purpose, and recommend others to be taught gratis, which is readily done by all the teachers.
There is no part of the parish so distant from school as to prevent attendance of the children. Those in the Bridge of Dee and Legart district have to go more than two miles to any school in the parish, and a school there would be of very great service.
Friendly Societies. – The Friendly Societies in Torry and the Cove, began in the year 1772, it was found necessary, some years ago, with the consent of all parties concerned, to dissolve. There are still two deposit Societies at the Cove.
Poor and Parochial Funds. – The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 57: the average allowance per annum a little more than L.1, 10s. Average amount of collections at the church for the poor, L.53, 19s.; donation penalties, mort-cloths, &c. L.33, 0s. 5d.; interest of money left, L.29, 13s. 5d.
The average expenses are L.11, 12s. viz., for the session-clerk's fee, the precentor's and officer's salary, &c.
Mr James Calder, late merchant in Aberdeen, gave L.500 to the poor of the parish. Some of the heritors give an annual donation for the parish; and sums have been bequeathed by others.
Inns and Public-Houses. – There are about ten or twelve public-house in the parish, one-half of which would be sufficient.
Fuel. – Peats and turf are used a good deal in country houses, and by the white-fishermen in Cove and Burnbanks for smoking and curing Finnan haddocks; the turf being procured from the mosses belonging to Mr Menzies and others, in the upper part of the parish, and in Nether Banchory. But many use coals, particularly in Torry and neighbourhood.
Revised 1838.
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